In these few paragraphs Peter Hart takes you on the journey that we often take on our tours. Each day will be different and we visit places not mentioned in this piece but overall this gives you the essence of what to expect on a Peter Hart Battlefield Tour.

Helles Day 1
We walked down to V Beach itself. At the beach we went to the spit, now overlooked not by the ruins as in 1915 during the landing on 25 April, but by a fairy castle monstrosity! Hey ho – it’s their country! We did the tale of the landing using new quotes. Then we walked to the cemetery, before climbing the cliff, past the British gun from one of the predreadnought battleships we had sold them prewar which is now mounting guard in a post-war gunpit. And so up to the top! The view was still great, despite the ‘improvements’ to the fort. We looked at the gun destroyed by the marines before moving to the Helles Memorial for orientation, to take photos of individual casualties of personal interest and then lunch on the shady side. In the afternoon we walked across to the new lighthouse museum before going round the cliff to approach W Beach from the south – a much more unusual perspective. By this time. W Beach is unspoilt and filled with things to look at, tell the story of and to think about. First on the way down we visited where the explosion of the munitions in the cave at the south-east end during the tense evacuation of 8 January 1916 had left a narrow valley with the former roof scattered about as a neighbouring debris field. Then we reviewed the story of the 25 April landings on the beach itself, surrounded by the lighters wrecked in the November storms. The 1915 piers still survived in outline and one’s imagination can recreate the scene of a corps headquarters supply dump. We set off to the north, climbing the cliff by a decent path, much as Brigadier Steuart Hare had to circumnavigate the thin Turkish defences. We arrived at the deep dugouts. This is an amazing high point for me – to stand in these dugouts and reflect on what was going on that winter as they wondered how to cling on in the face of increased Turkish artillery power and terrible weather conditions. Then up on top to examine the reservoirs build by the Monmouthshire Royal Engineers back in August 1915. Round the trenches and collapsed dugouts to make our way to Lancashire Landing Cemetery to pay our respects. We then drove across to Hunter Weston’s Hill. Here we strolled across to the site of the cutout in the side of the hill where ‘Bunny’ Bremner had left his Voisin on 8 January 1916 after being forced to land on the airfield by an over-attentive Fokker! A quick lift on the bus before the walk to the French guns. I decided to visit both pairs, visiting the two to the south of the path first. They were great, but increasingly overgrown. This was compounded by the sorry state of the ‘usual’ two guns which were almost invisible. This is bloody stupid and the authorities – instead of wasting money on stupid monuments that no one visits should look after – or at least do basic maintenance – on those real artefacts from the campaign. Then another hop onto the bus and off to visit Lieutenant Colonel Charles Doughty Wylies’s grave. Then we drove on to the French Cemetery. This should be an obligatory visit for any Gallipoli visitor. The French fought bravely, were efficient through their use of artillery, coped with incredible tactical disadvantages and had more casualties than the Australians and New Zealanders combined. The cemetery is wonderful as well, with the angle iron grave markers, the huge ossuaries containing thousands of bodies and above it all towers a magnificent erection symbolising the full thrust of French manhood. Then we visited the Turkish Memorial, where Bulent explained the symbolic cemetery, the naming conventions and the casualties suffered in various campaigns. We walked slowly round the gigantic ‘table’ memorial before looking down at S Beach and considering whether the South Wales Borderers could have done better by moving to assist the landing at V Beach. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Then a quick visit to Krithia – or Alcitepe as I it is now known where we visit the great little museum and have ice creams and Turkish coffee. A visit to the new medical museum behind the village completes our day.

Helles Day 2
First we went to cover the landing at X Beach scene of a relatively successful landing on 25 April. Next a few hundred yards to the walk down to Gully Beach. I love this place! Completely unspoilt, it looks so atmospheric – and as we looked at 1915 photos you could almost be there. We could see the old wreck of the lighter run ashore in the rough seas during the evacuation on 8/9 January 1916. Not much left now, but a photo in Steve Chambers Gully Ravine book showed it in all its past glory. Then across to Joe Murray’s well, where I told them his story of how it had been dug in July 1915. We started walking up the Gully Ravine. A quiet start, but the vegetation grew thicker and sides rose up to some 100 or do feet. Then a diversion to the site of ‘Derek’s Dump’ a collapsed dugout with loads of tin cans lying on the surface. Machonachies cans and bully beef tins were the most obvious. They were just as we last saw them last year – it really is amazing that they survived. Then back to the main track and along to Geohagen’s Bluff. Here there had been a cemetery which was now consolidated to Twelve Tree Copse, but there was also a football field that featured in the story of the Dardanelles Cup. Then on through the narrow gully with towering cliffs, until we reached the C Redoubt, the point from which the 14th Sikhs made their doomed attack on 4 June at the Third Battle of Krithia. Young Second Lieutenant Reginald Savory was channeled in a reading, with him vigorously expressing his disgust at the tactics adopted and the consequent destruction of his regiment. We left the Gully moving up onto Fir Tree Spur to examine the attack by 156th Brigade on 28 June. To their left the 29th Division had a storming success against the Boomerang trench and pushing right along Gully Spur. But the Scots lacked artillery support and they were shot to bits. We had several dispiriting quotes to read, each reinforcing the impression of futility. Afterwards we walked across the bare fields to Twelve Tree Copse Cemetery where we had a leisurely lunch. Then a quick drive round to The French sector where we paid a visit to the Quadrilateral, a dominating feature that was only captured by the French after incredible bloodshed and the most vicious fighting. Once again, I went through the awful tactical situation of the French with the Turkish gun batteries enfolding them from across the Straits, while the Kereves Dere chasm blocked their way to the front forcing them to turn inland fighting their way past several strong redoubts, of which the Quadrilateral was the best preserved. It dominated the sector and we could see its importance as we switched to study the Royal Naval Division attack in the fields to the right of Achi Baba Nullah on 4 June. We walked down the line of Parson’s Road, from which they attacked and read several accounts that summed up the horrors of the fighting that day. The RND did well but as the French failed against impossible odds to their right, so the Turks began to counterattack pressing down the front-line trenches, until they were behind the RND in the second and third lines. Joe Murray only just escaped, leaping over a packed Turkish front line and receiving a bayonet jab “Right in the nick!” The knock-on effects also dealt a blow to the Manchester to the left of the RND on Krithia Spur. They too had to fall back and only held the first of the three lines they had captured. In the end bugger all was achieved and two days later the Turks launched attack after attack, pressing down the gullies and nearly breaking through. We moved on to the Hook in the former Turkish lines and talked about the 52nd Division attack on 12 July. This was another bloody disaster – the Scots got forward under heavy fire, but then tried to find a third trench that simply wasn’t there – despite aerial recce reports. Many lives were lost. Then back to the bus and up, up, up to visit Achi Baba. We looked across Helles from the stupid viewing platform and appreciated the tactical value of Achi Baba to the Turks and why it was important to eject them from such a position. Then, after clambering down from the back of the platform at great personal risk, we walked across to the top of the hill to see whether it really did dominate the Dardanelles Narrows. OF course it doesn’t, it just provided a view of Eren Kuie Bay, which was nice but hardly relevant. Ahead of us stood the real second day objective, meant to be achieved on 26 April – the Kilid Bahir plateau. It is like a great wall dominating a stretch of rough valleys and ridges that would have cost thousands of casualties to cross – on a good day! The prospects of real success were minimal. The campaign was a fool’s errand and Winston Churchill – and the rest of the war cabinet were the fools. Then we were off back to Eceabat.

Anzac Day 1
I am far more interested in the history of Helles and Suvla, but there is no doubt that this is a day of days. The combination of exciting history, dramatic terrain, heroism on all sides and fantastic scenery makes it an unbeatable way to spend a few hours with like-minded idiots – or my touring group. On the way we point out Mal Tepe, the first day objective and always described on pain of death as the ‘cone shaped hill’. Then on to Ari Burnu where we saw the new Ataturk reconciliation memorial, happily restored to continue to inspire generations of Australians and Turks. After a look at the cemetery we had a briefing on the landing, I try to explain that they had not landed in the ‘wrong’ place, explained the bunching of the first wave at Ari Burnu and how the second wave dropped off by destroyers landed in the correct alignment. The Turkish defences were outlined and the fact that for 4 hours there was only one company of the 2/27th Regiment to face them. We sauntered casually along the beach ruined by the stupidity of the Australians and Turkish authorities in their desperation to get 8 trillion people to the commemoration site on North Beach. The resulting road has destroyed Anzac Cove. Hey ho – only arguably the most important site in Australian military history. We climbed up to the lovely beach Cemetery and paid our usual respects to John Simpson Kirkpatrick who came from South Shields. Then round to Shrapnel Valley Cemetery before climbing the steep path up McLagan’s Hill to Plugge’s Plateau. The views were stunning. We pushed across the plateau to the point overlooking the Razor leading to Russell’s Top with a great view of the Sphinx. Here we discussed how the covering force commanded by Sinclair McLagan stopped on Second Ridge and how he further diverted the next brigade to the 400 Plateau rather than allowing them to proceed to the hearings of Chunuk Bair. The threat posed by Sefik Aker’s 27th Regiment approaching from Eceabat was seen as the key threat – they were all unaware of the approach of Mustafa Kamel and the 57th Regiment, moving with grim purpose towards Chunuk Bair. The few Australians and New Zealanders on Battleship Hill were thrown back and by the end of the day the shape of ‘Old Anzac’ had been fixed. Then we move along off the back of Plugge’s and down the new path which provides steps down into Shrapnel Valley. Then the stiff climb up Braunds Hill – marvelling as we went at the fabulous views over Monash Valley. At 4th Australian Parade Ground Cemetery, we paused for a rest and I led a pilgrimage to the site of Langham’s Dump – a crucial reminder of what is really important in life and the importance of planning. We then climbed the steps – gasp – and walked to the Lone Pine where we met the bus. After lunch, we studied the Lone Pine diversionary battle of 6-8 August 1915. A suicidally dangerous attack, brilliantly planned, but triggering fighting so intense that if attracted not only all e local reserves but also Kannengiesser’s 9th Division who were near the Kim hotel as it now is. They would march north and ultimately appear to thwart the New Zealand attack on Chunuk Bair. After a quick visit to the uncovered trenches of Silt Spur, we moved along to Johnson’s Jolly where we marvelled at the wonderful trenches still surviving and heard quotes from the Turkish night attack on 19 May, including a great monosyllabic reading of Albert Jacka’s diary entry. Then on to Quinn’s Post where we had the pleasure of hearing Lieutenant Colonel William Malone’s account of sorting the post out after taking it over from the Australians – and commenting liberally on their many failings. We walked onto the cleared area of Dead Man’s Ridge overlooking Bloody Angle where I played the recording with Private Thomas Baker recalling the attack on the ridge on 3 May. It is wonderful to hear it in situ. Literally breathtaking if you have a soul! Then a visit to the impressive 57th Regiment Memorial. Back on the bust for the short journey to The Nek. After paying our respects at the cemetery we went to the Australian trenches from which the attack was launched on the morning of 7 August. We had a series of quotes that showed the futility of attempting the impossible, given that the New Zealanders had failed to get behind the Turkish lines. Then on to the viewing point over Mule Valley, beautiful as ever, with the world’s greatest safety barrier! Walker’s cemetery is stunning in its views over North Anzac but this was just the aperitif to the descent of the Walker’s Ridge. Not everyone can – or wants – to do this, but it is well worth it. A bit steep and ‘dodgy’ in places it just demands care and attention. But the views across to the Sphinx and to the north are just fabulous. At the bottom we met the bus and were soon whisked away – tired but happy to our hotel!

Anzac Day 2
Now we’re really picking up the pace with our second day at Anzac. We are like a smooth well-oiled machine as we rise, eat breakfast and get away in our charabanc on another magical mystery tour. First stop is Chunuk Bair, where we look at the success of the Wellington Regiment under the command of the indefatigable, irritable bugger that was Lieutenant Colonel William Malone. He was the chap who had sorted out the defence of Quinn’s post, now he led his Wellingtons up Rhododendron Ridge to size the heights of Chunk Bair on the morning of 8 August. The Turks counter-attacked all day, but the New Zealanders put up a tremendous fight under their inspirational leader. Then in the early evening, as the firing died down, a shell sailed across – probably from an Australian howitzer – and crashed into his headquarters killing Malone. Then we walked round to the view over North Anzac. We found a spot to look out over The Farm, far below, and across to Cheshire Ridge. It was also an ideal spot to familiarise ourselves with the basic features of Suvla. Then across to see the statue of the great Mustafa Kemal and we heard how he directed the mass attack of thousands of Turkish infantrymen over the steep hill down on the hapless British defenders, overwhelming the Wiltshires and her troops at the Farm and only stopped by machine gun fire from the Apex on Rhododendron Ridge. Then a visit to the only grave of a soldier from the 1/10th Gurkhas in fond memory of David Harding, a Gurkha officer who had accompanied us on a tour a couple of years ago. Then we drove to Hill 971 and marvelled at the fabulous view. Then back to Chunk Bair and so began the long march down Rhododendron Ridge. Only a fool would climb up! Not only is it more tiring, but you have nothing to look at but the backside of the person in front as they strain and pull up the hill. Going down you can look at the historical wonders before you. We took our time, stopping at the collapsed tunnels and the steep slopes climbed on the night of the 6 August by the New Zealand Mounted Rifles. What views, both north and south. Just fantastic! When we got to the road, we had lunch. The day was right on schedule. We decided on impulse to visit Bulent’s suggestion of Sandbag Ridge, the New Zealand Mounted Horse front line looking across to Hill 971 and Hill Q. Our brilliant driver Ahmed took us most of the way up the dirt track through Australia Valley, then we pushed on by foot. We climbed the ridge and found what looked to be a well-preserved parapet lining a field and overlooking the valleys and ridges leading to Sari. The lads found loads of bullets and glass one even found the butt of a rifle. Views were fantastic, then back to the van and on to Hill 60. Here I explained that it was a two-headed hill: one overlooked the link between Anzac and Suvla, the other the hinterland between W Hills and the Anafarta villages. After visiting the sombre cemetery, we looked at the British front line before moving on to look at the ‘Turkish’ Hill 60 and as usual found a harvest of bone fragments. This place was known as Bomba Tepe to the Turks and was a real slaughterhouse – one of the few places to experience serious fighting after August.

Kum Kale
We set off to catch the early ferry at 08.00 and whiz across to Cannakale a nice trip, but just think some tour groups do that twice a day – every day! We then drive off to the new village of Kum Kale where we visit a couple of guns left in the fields quite nearby. Then along the narrow military road across the Mendere River to the old Turkish cemetery, which has some well-preserved trenches. This over-looked the old fort and village of Kum Kale. We discussed the French landing on 25 April 1915. Landing late, from about 10.00 because of the currents from the straits, they overwhelmed the light Turkish picket. But there were three Turkish battalions just the other side of the Mandera River, and two more regiments within easy marching distance. The French landing was a very risky business indeed, but it was considered vital by Hamilton to prevent the Turks firing into the rear of the British landing at V Beach. The delays built up and it was not until late afternoon that they were ready to move on Orkanie. But then aerial recce reports came in at strong Turkish forces were nearby. The French then out the village of Kum Kale under defence – it is still a Turkish military base – and prepared for the inevitable night attack. All night the fighting raged, but the French 75s were crucial in fending off the Turks. Come the dawn and they were vulnerable to fire from the French naval forces – in the confusion many surrendered, and some French soldiers were taken prisoner whilst attempting to sort it out. Then the British asked for a French brigade to help at Helles, where the 29th Division was struggling. The French commander, General d’Amade, could not risk maintaining the Kum Kale landing with most of his reserves removed so got permission to evacuate – which was done without loss on the night of 26 April. The French were then given V Beach as a base and spent the whole campaign enduring fire from the Asiatic batteries, which was apparently impossible for the British to withstand for one day on 25 April! We then follow the road to the Orkanie Fort. We went round the front first, where an old film production had left a series of fake guns in various degrees of detail in the former anti-aircraft pits. Fake or not they are good fun! Then we examine the beautiful 6″ gun – taken from a British pre-dreadnought sold to the Turks before 1914. It is pointing symbolically straight into the back of where the French supply base was at V Beach. Then we walked into the fort proper and round the ammunition storehouses – thick walls for some reason! Then across an old rifle range and up to a fantastic viewpoint over the Straits. After effortlessly winning the annual competition for the best route with Bulent, we looked out over the Straits – phew – breathtaking! Then back down to the fort and across to the ‘Patroclus Mound’. where we read the wonderful poem by Patrick Shaw Stewart. it was an emotional moment. Then on to Troy where visits are optional to the city and the museum. Or you can relax in the café! Then a visit to the Naval Museum in Cannakale, which was fascinating.

Suvla
First stop on the way to Lala Baba was the wonderful British 1915 well which is still working – amazing! We then walk up to the top of Lala Baba itself. Halfway up, under a convenient shady tree, I sketched out the plans to land at Suvla, seize the surrounding hill ranges and establish a firm base during the main August offensive to capture the Sari Bair range. We discussed the myriad problems in command and control in the gestation of an outstandingly ambitious – stupid – plan, then talked throughout the initial successful landings made from the beetle landing craft on the night of 6 August on B and C Beaches, followed by the capture of the hill. Then we walked through minor scrub to the top overlooking the whole of the Salt Lake and the Suvla battleground to be. The 34th Brigade were landed – against naval advice in the A Beach area actually within Suvla Bay and promptly ran aground. Struggling ashore the Manchester set off for Kiretch Tepe while the rest were joined by 32nd Brigade in a shameful morass of order, counter-order and disorder as the sought to march round the northern edge of the dry Salt Lake to reach Chocolate Hill. They were meant to capture the Tekke Tepe range at the back of Suvla by Dawn but only managed to capture Chocolate Hill by nightfall on the 7 August. The Turkish resistance was masterful and the pattern had been set. Then we walked across to the wonderful Lala Baba cemetery with its sad graves and amazing views. Back in the coach and we drove to Green Hill where we had lunch. Timing is everything and I spoke in the cocktail of diseases which afflicted the troops including dysentery, paratyphoid and soldiers heart – a talk illuminated by my impersonation of a fly buzzing from faeces to jam and back again! Then across to the front of Chocolate Hill where we had the reverse view across the Salt Lake to Lala Baba. Then on to Suvla Point where a short climb gained us a perspective of the rocky horrors of Kiretch Tepe ridge, where the Manchesters and 10th Irish Division did much of their fighting and the men suffered agonies of thirst in the first few days. Afterwards we visited the sunken beetle which looked as lovely as ever. The area had been part of a bustling port supplying a whole army corps, under desultory fire from the Anarfata battery. At Hill 10 cemetery I played the evocative singing of ‘Homelands’ by Lieutenant George Horridge of the 1/5th Lancashire Fusiliers. Very emotional. Then on the bus and up to Scimitar Hill where we talked of the sad tale of the 6th East Yorkshire Regiment who were pulled off the hill and sent up Tekke Tepe, where they were duly ambushed on the lower slopes – and the Turks retook Scimitar Hill. Then I covered the attack of the 1/4th Cheshire Regiment on 10 August, a doomed affair and featuring the wounding of Private Ernest Haire, who I interviewed when he was 99 years old. We then briefly discussed the ludicrous myth of the ‘disappearing Norfolks’ during the advance attempted on 12 August. Then it was on, on, to W Hills. On the ridge we stopped and I recounted the tragic pointless attack of 11th, 29th and 2nd Mounted Divisions on W Hills and Scimitar Hill made on 21 August. It was a slaughter and in our minds eye we could picture the dismounted yeomanry advancing across the dry Salt Lake before pushing on to their all too frequent deaths. What a carve up. The now traditional group photo was taken on the ‘W’ of W Hill. Close to the finishing line now, we moved to the Anafarta Gun Battery. Here we had a carefully posed photo that did the heart good just to witness it. Then a final call at the fabulous Anafarta War Museum – a lovely visit. Then suddenly it was all over.