Concluding his account of the 1936 tour to Gallipoli and Salonika, Albert Cordwell described visiting Cape Helles, then still covered in the debris of war, where they laid wreaths at the Helles Memorial; the hospitality enjoyed in Greece and Yugoslavia, particularly at Doiran; and arranging a rendezvous at sea with the “River Clyde” during their voyage home.
“PILGRIMAGE TO GALLIPOLI.
“English Woman Captain in Yugo-Slavian Army
“ENTHUSIASTIC WELCOME AT SALONIKA
“We print the conclusion of the special article on the Pilgrimage to Gallipoli and Salonika, arranged by Messrs. A. E. Cordwell and C. D. Clark…
“The second day was spent
“AROUND CAPE HELLES.
“The account of a pilgrimage to Gallipoli by British veterans in 1936.
“By contrast with the utter desolation of Anzac, we passed the two villages of Maidos and Kilid Bahr, thence on to Krithia, the foot of Achi Baba, of ill repute. The old village is still but a heap of ruins almost untouched since the war, the new village being built on an adjacent site. Children swarmed out at our approach, but promptly scattered when they heard the clank of our nuts and bolts and the coughing of the engines. After reaching the old Redoubt, some of us walked across country to Sedd-el-Bahr, while others continued by “road.” The Cape Helles Memorial to Missing is visible to all shipping passing up the Dardanelles, and here a service, equal in impressiveness to that of the previous day at Lone Pine, was held. A few made their way to the French Memorial at Morto Bay to pay homage to our French comrades in arms, but the majority were bent on exploration of “V,” “W” and “X” beaches, Gully Ravine, Pink Farm, and other historic spots. The trenches in this area are fully recognisable and some can be traced throughout their length. Much debris was still as it was left over 20 years ago – heaps of metal, bully beef tins, ammunition clips, mess tins, water bottles, etc., while skeletons of friend or foe are discerned every now and then. The work of clearing the ground is for obvious reasons not so advanced as on the Western Front.
“V” beach is one mass of rusty of lighters, rails, boilers, and the remains of the pier erected after the grounding of the “River Clyde.” Scarcely a step can be taken the whole length of the beach without having to scramble over jagged, rusty metal. Many of the beach’s former inhabitants were with us, wandering about here and there, re-living the days of 21 years ago. Some even indulged in a bathe for old time’s sake, but one unfortunate found to his cost that the Turkish barbed wire, which was a contributory cause of the appalling casualties during the landings, was still efficient notwithstanding its immersion for so may years.
“It was a tired but well satisfied party, though sore at foot and elsewhere, that eventually bumped its way back to KeIia Bay and the “Lancastria,” full of memories, in anticipation of a call at Salonika the following morning.
“SALONIKA
“New soon spread that all was quiet at Salonika, and the captain’s confirmation of calling there the following morning atoned for the earlier disappointment. We were greeted at the quay on arrival by a guard of honour of Greek troops, accompanied by a military band which struck up the Greek and British National Anthems, followed “Tipperary” and stirring marches. As soon as the “Lancastria” had tied up, a deputation of Greek ex-Service men, accompanied by the General and Admiral in charge of the Military and Naval Forces of the Salonika area, and other prominent officials came up to the lounge. After Introductions to the leading passengers, the leader of Ex-Servicemen read an address of welcome, afterwards handing over the scroll to us, together with a vase made of pottery in Mitylene, and filled with earth from each of the British Cemeteries in Macedonia. Both the scroll and the vase were decorated with ribbons of the national colours of Greece and Great Britain. These will be presented in due for permanent care by the Imperial War Museum, but are at present on view in the window of Messrs. J. K. Swallow and Sons, Burlington Street, Chesterfield.
“After the impressive little ceremony we disembarked. A hundred or so made for the Struma front, and although in a few places unpleasant incidents arose from the threatening attitude of strikers in the villages, the majority spent an interesting day visiting Lahana, Kilo 71, and Seres. The main party, including most of us from Chesterfield, and led by Admiral Sir Roger Keyes, set out by special train for Doiran. All Greece seemed to know of our arrival, for even at the village stations through which we passed the population turned out to wave and cheer us on our way. Our first stop was at Kilkis, a large village a few hundred yards distant from one of our main Macedonian cemeteries, which some had come especially to visit. The station was crowded with troops and civilians, including the inevitable guard of honour and band. The way to the cemetery was led by a solitary Evzon, or Greek National Guard, all resplendent in his quaint, white-kilted uniform, with a sort of powder puff at the tip of his shoes, bearing a wreath from the Greek community. He was followed at an interval by a military band, playing swinging marches, to the accompaniment of which three hundred of us followed on. Another guard of honour awaited our arrival at the cemetery, where had already assembled the mayor and other notables of the district. A short service followed, said in Greek by two Greek orthodox priests, and in English by Colonel Raymer, Chaplain to the British Legation at Athens. Wreath after wreath was laid at the Cemetery Memorial, some from our Greek friends and some from ourselves and those from home. Towards the end of the ceremony a little schoolgirl, eight or nine years of age, stepped proudly forward, wreath in one hand and a written address in the other. Before a crowd of at least 500 people, and without the slightest trace of nervousness or hesitation, she said her part in a clear, childish voice, and seemed particularly eloquent when she announced that “we children of Greece will, in our turn, be happy to for you as those of yours that lie buried here have done for us.”
“WREATHS FROM CHESTERFIELD
“A similar ceremony, attended in addition by Yugo-Slav representatives, took place at Doiran, at the foot of the Memorial to the Missing at Colonial Hill. Among the wreaths laid here was one of the two sent by the Chesterfield Corporation. The other was laid on the Cape Helles Memorial. Re-entering the train, we arrived a few minutes later at Doiran Station, where again the whole population was waiting for us. A line of cars was ready to convey us the few hundred yards to the frontier. This normally sombre post was enlivened by a triumphal arch erected in our honour, with a huge banner suspended bearing the word “Welcome” in English, Greek and Yugo-Slavian. The Greek and Yugo-Slav frontier officials fraternised freely with us and with themselves, and for once frontier duties seemed to be forgotten by both interested parties.
“Major Milojkoviach, President of the Association of the Holders of the Karageorge Star, had been in communication with us for months, determined to give us a royal time. The unexpected events of the week-end upset his original arrangements, but I cannot imagine that, whatever his original intentions were, the welcome could have been more delightful. His main object was to entertain us on Yugo-Slavian soil. He succeeded by a matter of 20 yards. Beneath the shadow of Colonial Hill, and only a few yards from the shores of Lake Doiran itself, two large marquees had been erected in a field. A most glorious setting, and an ideal day. Making towards the marquees, we were invited to wash. Two long forms, facing each other at about 10 yards apart, one for ladies the other for gentlemen, were lined with new enamel bowls and jugs. I picked up the soap, and was immediately pounced upon by a corporal for fear I should dip my hands in the water. He poured some over my hands, and after getting a satisfactory lather he poured more water over to rinse them. So it was with all of us. Just before reaching the marquees, each of us was invited to take a liqueur from a trayful held by another officer. Seated, a bottle of beer appeared immediately, to be replaced from time to time as necessary without the asking. A sumptuous meal followed, with white wine, red wine, and finally champagne. Musical accompaniment by a military band, with “Tipperary” encored time and again, added to the joys of two of the most delightful hours of my life. The unbounded pleasure which our Yugo-Slav friends derived from their own hospitality was reciprocated to the full, and enhanced by the simplicity and informality of the occasion.
“One most interesting personality present was
“CAPT. FLORA SANDS,
“a British lady, and the only woman to hold a commission in the Yugo-Slavian Army. A nurse before and at the outbreak of war, she accompanied the Serbians during their retreat. Not satisfied with her non-combatant role, she donned uniform and became an Amazon. Remaining with the Serbian Forces during the remainder of the war, she became one of themselves. The regard in which she is held, even by senior officers, can be judged the closing remarks of General Stopchich’s speech: “But whatever you do, you must not take Captain Flora Sands away from us. If you do, there will be war between Great Britain and Yugo-Slavia.” Flora Sands was well known to many of the ex-nurses who were with us, although they had lost touch with her for 20 years. There is something particularly gratifying at the way isolated Britishers earn the respect of communities normally averse to foreign influence.
“A few of us were entertained in the Officers’ Mess to a final champagne by way of farewell. A particularly burly ex-Montenegrin officer would insist on kissing me full on the lips in his enthusiasm; if he has a wife, she has my sympathy during his passionate moments. Emery paper is like silk by comparison.
“It was with the greatest regret that we left Doiran and its charming people. My last sight of them was when they accompanied the local band round and round our train playing “Tipperary” for all they were worth. Back in Salonika, we visited the Army Headquarters, where Sir William Birdwood inspected a contingent of the 3rd Greek Army. The rest of the evening was spent in Salonika itself, sightseeing, and so on, until at midnight we had to bid a regretful and final “Adieu.”
“As Sir Roger Keyes said in the House of Commons on May 29th, after his return, there is no room for doubt as to the friendship the Turks, Greeks and Yugo-Slavs entertain towards us. Sir William Birdwood’s comment at the end of the voyage is also worth recording, when he said that the pilgrimage had done more in three weeks to enhance good feelings between us and our Balkan friends than ordinary diplomatic channels could have done in many years.
“Apart from usual cruise routine, only one other incident on the homeward voyage is worth recording. Since July last we had endeavoured to arrange a
“RENDEZVOUS WITH THE “RIVER CLYDE,”
“the old collier which was such a familiar sight to all who served on “V” beach. For his part in the deliberate grounding of the ship, and immediately afterwards. Captain E. Unwin, of Ashbourne, was awarded the V.C. The “River Clyde” was sold after the war to a Spaniard, Senor Junquera. We made contact with him, but just as arrangements were nearing settlement a week or two before sailing, a strike at Gijon prevented a sailing schedule being fixed. Fortunately, the strike broke during our voyage, and a rendezvous was fixed a few hours steaming east of Gibraltar. Towards 11.30 a.m. on May 19th, a small steamer was sighted on the horizon, steaming towards us. By funnel markings it was soon identified as the “River Clyde,” now re-named the “Maruja y Aurora.” Signals of greeting were hoisted as both ships approached each other, and sirens added their mutual welcome. Captain Unwin sent a message “From the old Captain to the new, Good Luck.” We can but hazard a guess at Captain Unwin’s thoughts sighted his old ship for the first time since he left it, battered and torn by shell fire, on “V” beach. Passing at only a few yards’ distance, her crew lined her decks and exchanged enthusiastic greetings, with the “Lancastria’s” passengers. In a quarter of an hour she was out of sight, and one of the most touching episodes since the war was but a memory.
“Four days later we reached Liverpool. Many words of appreciation were addressed to us before disembarking, and will remain treasured equally with the gold watch and autograph album, complete with the signatures of the ship’s officers and all passengers, with which we were presented. For both Clark and myself I can say that the hard work of 17 months’ organisation was amply rewarded by the obvious pleasure the pilgrimage gave, not only to the passengers of the “Lancastria” but also to our friends, old and new, in Malta, Istanbul, Chanak, Salonika, and Doiran. We are both glad to reflect that the pilgrimage was born and reared in Chesterfield.
“A. E. CORDWELL.” [1]
[1] ‘The Derbyshire Times,’ 12th June 1936.